Press "Enter" to skip to content

How to Calculate Net Worth

I routinely read articles and posts screaming about knowing your Net Worth. Each time I read one the first thing that catches my eye is how they calculate Net Worth. There are a multitude of ways to calculate your Net Worth, each with pluses and minuses. For the purposes of this calculation let’s consider a hypothetical person named Joe.   Joe has the following assets and liabilities:

Asset       Dollars
Car         $20K
Home Equity       $200K
Retirement Accounts Pre Tax       $200K
Retirement Accounts Post Tax       $200K
Taxable Account       $400K

 

Liability       Dollars
Mortgage Debt       $100K

Assets to Liabilities

The easiest of these is the simple assets-liabilities with everything included. In this case Joe is worth $1.020 Million dollars. The problem with this calculation is depending on its utilization, certain assets and liabilities might make sense to be excluded. For example, if you’re checking to predict what your net worth will be 2 years from now, should you consider an asset that depreciates like a car? Probably not as that asset will likely be worth a lot less.

Minus Depreciating Assets

This leads us to the second possibility, the same calculation with the removal of assets that depreciate (or decrease in value over time). In this case, Joe is worth $1M dollars. The thing is, what if your purpose was to understand how much net worth you have to invest or cover your expenses? Well then any asset that you likely could not sell without incurring a replacement reoccurring expense should not be included. So for example your home equity might not count since you still need to pay for a place to live even if you sell your home. This leaves Joe with $800K.

Minus Home Equity (Accredited Investor)

This third possibility is what the federal government uses to determine if you are an “Accredited Investor”, or someone who can be trusted to invest in more exotic investment vehicles due to the amount they have to invest. The assumption is that if they have a lot to invest perhaps they actually know how to invest so they will not be taken advantage of.

Other Variations

However, these are not the limits of methodologies. I have seen others do combinations of the following for various reasons:

  • Consider recalculating pre tax accounts like a 401K as post tax account by removing the amount equal to your tax bracket. This will show you what the assets will be if you don’t succeed in managing your tax bite for your retirement later in life. In this case, if Joe is in the 25% tax bracket he has: $200K*.75+$200K+$400K= $750K
  • Do not consider your retirement account/401k because the money is not accessible until retirement without jumping through hoops. One could also consider that the government could change tax laws and thus take a considerable portion of these accounts. In this case, if we build on the first 3, Joe has $400K.
  • Do not consider your home equity but consider your home liability. This shows your expense impact of the liability while remembering the home equity is not available for you to spend. In this case, building on everything previously, Joe has $300K.

Our Net Worth Measurement, Goal Based

With so many different options it is very important to understand which methodology is being used and what the goal is in the context of its usage. As you can see from the above examples it can be the difference between having over $1M and $300K.

When calculating my retirement positions I actually look at my assets through a slightly different lens than the above. I’m more concerned with what income my assets will produce. As such, I tend to look at my assets in terms of their income potential per year.  In this case, I remove the Home Equity and Car assets, and multiply the remainder by 4%. In comparison to my expenses this gives me a good look at where I am. Why use 4%? Well besides the Trinity study that shows that a 4% withdrawal rate is sustainable over 30 years, I can also look at a composite view of the stock market, and bond fund return over the last 30 years and see this is a likely scenario. Remember that past performance does not guarantee future performance.

If I had something more tangible like rental property I could also calculate my return by looking at my rent. Combine these items and I get a similar picture to the above, but in context of my debts. In the case of Joe this would mean he has enough to cover $32K in expenses each year.

So the important take away here is to calculate Net Worth in the context of the question you are trying to answer, and be clear and consistent about the measurement you use.  However, it can be fairly demotivating to watch your total Net Worth take a dive due to stock market gyrations in spite of large deposits, as such always remember to check if Net Worth is a Relevant goal.

Which measurement is best for you?

6 Comments

  1. Andrew
    Andrew November 14, 2016

    Very interesting thoughts. I agree with docking your 401k for taxes, because when you finally pull the money out you won’t get the gross amount of the account value.

    Personally, I don’t count my car as an asset. They depreciate very fast and I’ll probably drive mine for the next 10 years at which point the resale value will be very low (probably less than $2 – 3K).

    Thanks for some interesting thoughts!

    • fulltimefinance@fulltimefinance.com
      fulltimefinance@fulltimefinance.com November 15, 2016

      The only question that remains is what tax rate do you use? Its certainly not a simple question to answer.

  2. Mustard Seed Money
    Mustard Seed Money November 14, 2016

    I don’t calculate a home or car into my net worth. I too exclude my home and car but would theoretically keep the liabilities since I have to pay for them.

    In my case I only include my cash and investments when calculating my net worth since theoretically these will be what I actually live off of in retirement. It feels more realistic to me than the inflated number that adding a home does to my net worth since I don’t plan to live in a cheaper house in the future.

    • fulltimefinance@fulltimefinance.com
      fulltimefinance@fulltimefinance.com November 15, 2016

      As always thanks for adding your perspective. It truly is a personal question.

  3. Primal Prosperity
    Primal Prosperity November 16, 2016

    I agree with you, which is why I don’t calculate my worth. Like you said, it is personal and this is what I think and agree with:

    – Cars not only depreciate, but cost a lot to maintain, that is why I sold my car.
    – Unless you do a FSBO, all real estate comes with hefty selling fees, so deduct that.
    – I definitely agree that pre-tax accounts should be considered only about 75-80% of the value to account for the taxes.
    – I don’t look at my retirement accounts because I have almost 20 years before I can even touch them and I can’t control the stock market much. So, I just max out every year and let it sit.
    – I do a different calc: I figure out how much I need to make a month and then go after getting that cash flow. I’m happy to say that I have hit that break even point already with rental income!

    • fulltimefinance@fulltimefinance.com
      fulltimefinance@fulltimefinance.com November 17, 2016

      Very good point about real estate transactions I hadn’t considered. Thanks for adding your perspective.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *